From fabric to fallout: How textile waste is contaminating Bengal’s water and soil

In the southern fringes of Kolkata, in South 24 Parganas, a quiet crisis is unfolding beneath the surface. Much of the groundwater here is saline, forcing communities to rely on a few deep aquifers that are now under immense pressure. Feeding this strain are hundreds of textile bleaching and dyeing units that depend on groundwater for production and discharge, much of it back—laden with colour, chemicals, and heavy metals. The same water that sustains lives and crops is turning toxic.

A recent study reveals alarming levels of heavy metals like lead, nickel, and cadmium in water, soil, and even fruits and vegetables from the region. The invisible flow of contamination has begun entering household diets, linking something as everyday as a papaya or glass of coconut water to a much larger story of industrial excess, weak regulation, and human vulnerability. Beneath the bright fabrics lie the stains of an ecological and public health emergency, increasing the risks of cancer, ulcers, and gastrointestinal ailments among the populations.

Textile dyeing and water pollution: A hidden threat

Textile units in the region use 70–150 litres of water, 0.6 kg of salt, 40 grams of reactive dyes and alkalis and other chemical additives to dye just 1 kilogram of cotton. This process generates large volumes of wastewater, much of which is discharged untreated into the environment. In South 24 Parganas, groundwater is already under stress, and textile bleaching and dyeing (BD) units extract water from deep aquifers—then release toxic effluents back into the soil and water systems.

The effluent contains heavy metals like lead (Pb), nickel (Ni), cadmium (Cd), arsenic (As), chromium (Cr), metals that seep into the soil, surface water and groundwater, contaminate fruits, crops, vegetables and leafy greens grown in polluted areas and enter the food chain—posing serious risks to human health, agriculture, and aquatic life. 

Heavy metals accumulate in the human body and can affect the central nervous system negatively in addition to triggering cardiac, gastric, hepatocellular, renal, neurodevelopmental, reproductive, and immune disorders, as well as intrauterine retardation.

The study titled ‘Heavy metal contamination from textile wastewater and its health impacts: a case study from West Bengal with sustainable remediation approaches’ by Gupta, B.G., Mukhopadhyay, R in Nature Scientific Reports was undertaken following incidences of acute gastrointestinal illnesses that people were suffering from in the area. The study investigated concentrations of toxic metals in various water sources, including raw wastewater, surface water, soil and fruits, vegetables and crops; assessed the potential health risks to humans from food consumption and drinking contaminated water, and explored strategies for risk mitigation.

Alipore Sadar subdivision is the most urbanised part of the South 24 Parganas district. It is an alluvial stretch located in the Ganges Delta, on the east bank of the Hooghly River and the core area for industrial development in the region includes Maheshtala.

Rameswarpur, Chata Kalikapur, Ganye Gangadharpur and Asuti form a Textile cluster on the southern side of Maheshtala and are a major source of contaminated wastewater that is released into the nearby canal in the region.

For the study, effluent samples were collected from different locations in the area around the existing canal that receives the effluents from the industry over two years, and tested for contaminants.

The table below lists the permissible limits for hazardous metals in soil and other agricultural products by the World Health Organisation and the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations in 2011.

Soil and water pollution by heavy metals: A growing problem in the region

Wastewater, surface water, deep tube wells, and farmlands had high concentrations of harmful metals such as Lead (Pb) and Nickel (Ni), while Zinc concentrations were found to be much lower than prescribed standards. 

• Lead in water and soil

• Nickel in water and soil

• Zinc in water and soil

Heavy metal concentrations in agricultural products are high

Agricultural and food items such as papaya, guava, coconut water, long grass, and water hyacinth had very high levels of lead as compared to standards set by the FAO/WHO (2022). The amount of cadmium found in guava was far higher than expected. Long grass, papaya, and coconut water had zinc levels that were much lower than the FAO/WHO guidelines.

Heavy metals contaminated water and food are increasing the risks of local populations to health problems

People in the region depend on surface water for drinking and use it to grow fruits and vegetables. Tests showed that these food items had up to 40 times more lead, cadmium, and nickel, and 50 times less zinc than safe limits set by WHO and FAO (2022). The soil also contained high concentrations of harmful metals, increasing risks of cancer, ulcers, and digestive disorders.

Residents have reported widespread health issues — including kidney, joint, and reproductive problems, as well as neurological diseases and ulcers. Many villagers complain of vomiting, gastrointestinal pain, and tooth discoloration, symptoms that point to heavy metal contamination from untreated wastewater released by nearby textile dyeing units.

Remedial measures to prevent contamination of natural resources in the region

The study suggests some remedial measures for sustainable textile and agricultural ecosystems such as:

• Establishment of Eco-Textile Parks: A blueprint for industrial reform

To mitigate the environmental and health impacts of unregulated textile clusters, there is a need to urgently relocate existing units into planned industrial estates housing 200–400 units each. These estates should be designed with:

Shared Effluent Treatment Facilities (ETPs) featuring:

• Pre-treatment to remove solids and oils

• Secondary biological treatment to degrade organic matter

• Advanced membrane-based filtration for water reuse

Eco-Planning of the surrounding area to:

• Ensure access to clean water sources

• Prevent metal contamination in nearby agricultural zones

• Reduce daily loss of underground water

• Save power and fuel through centralised infrastructure

This integrated approach will not only protect human health and food safety, but also support the textile industry's long-term viability.

• Use of Nanoparticle Techniques: Precision tools for soil and crop safety

Nanoparticles (NPs) are revolutionising agro-environmental remediation through:

• Soil fertility enhancement: Agro-nanotechnology improves nutrient delivery and reduces heavy metal bioavailability, making it a cost-effective solution for degraded soils.

• Food safety monitoring: Nano-sensors detect contamination levels in crops, helping prevent toxic exposure from industrial runoff and wastewater such as heavy metal contamination. For example, charcoal nano-sheets can be used to adsorb carcinogenic metals in wheat grown near factories. Understanding the dual nature of NPs—both their benefits and unintended consequences—is essential for safe deployment in agriculture and remediation.

The story of South 24 Parganas is not just about polluted water—it’s about people caught between livelihood and survival. Families here cannot stop using the same water that harms them; it’s the only water they have. The textiles that bring colour to markets elsewhere have drained colour from their soil and health.

This crisis calls for more than technical fixes—it demands accountability, sustainable industry practices, and recognition of those bearing the cost of convenience. As India’s textile footprint expands, it’s time to ask: who pays the real price for the fabric that dresses our lives?